Thursday, June 4, we had a lesson on how to use the
métro. We didn’t have far to go but did
have to make a change in order to reach the Musée
Rodin. The museum has a beautiful
rose garden in and around Rodin’s well-known sculptures.
Fortunately and unfortunately,
the main museum, Rodin’s Hôtel Biron,
is undergoing renovation, so much of the collection usually on display was not
available. I was very disappointed
because I love Camille Claudel’s sculptures.
Camille Claudel had a tempestuous relationship with Rodin. Rather than detail her tragic story here, let
me recommend a biography, Camille: The Life of Camille Claudel, Rodin's Muse
and Mistress by Reine-Marie
Paris and translated by Liliane Emery Tuck. Paris is Claudel’s great-niece.
We purchased 6-day
museum passes that would allow us entry not only to the Rodin, but the Louvre,
Orangerie, d’Orsay, Sainte Chapelle, and even Versailles. The roses in the Rodin garden were in full
bloom, and we had a very nice morning strolling among the sculptures.
Our next objective was
lunch then the Musée d’Orsay. The only way I knew to go to the d’Orsay was
by métro; however, we had to change to the RER (train) for our final
destination. We tried a nearby Tabac for
lunch where the food was good, but the service was pitiful. I have not had this type of experience in
Paris or anywhere else in France before.
We did pose a challenge when we asked for 3 separate bills. The waiter had his manager bring us one bill,
and he did not even say that they wouldn’t do that for us. Humpphh.
Meanwhile, Michael was
to meet us for a tour of the d’Orsay. I told him we were having lunch and would
meet him at the museum, but I neglected to say which one! He had gone to the Rodin. Désolée!
Michael said to go
ahead in, and he would find us. My beginning as tour guide, and at the beginning of the museum, was to tell a story Michael told before about this sculpture, Woman Bitten by a Serpent. The sculptor, Auguste Clésinger, was married Solange Sand, Georges Sand's daughter. Georges Sand, the French writer, had a tumultuous affair with the composer Frédéric Chopin (among others).
Clésinger also made the funerary monument for Chopin's grave in Père Lachaise Cemetery.
The Musée d’Orsay is known primarily for its collection of Impressionists’ work and has recently been renovated. Jane, who is working toward her BFA in art, was blown away by the works on display. Michael and I text back and forth until I turn a corner, and there he is! Michael took over as tour director, and I felt free just to enjoy the paintings for a bit.
There is currently a
special exhibit of the artist Pierre Bonnard.
Here are some of my favorites, a few for which I got in trouble for
taking pictures—when paintings are on lone from private collections and/or
other museums, apparently there is some stricture on taking photos of
them. Michael says its because they want
you to buy the post cards and prints that accompany the exhibit.
During our sojourn in the Bonnard exhibit, a
museum spokesperson starts an announcement regarding an unattended
package. This message repeats for quite
a while, asking that whomever should come to retrieve the package.
Right after we make
our way to the 5th floor for the Impressionist paintings, my camera
battery dies! I brought a backup camera,
but where is it? You guessed it—back at
the apartment! Thankfully, I did have my
phone as a substitute. We decided to try
to walk through the Impressionists room with blinders on (Ha!) and get a drink
at the café. The café was not seating
anyone because they were waiting for further instructions regarding the
unattended package situation. I started
back through the rooms, phone in hand, to take as many pictures as I
could.
Sure enough, everyone was asked
to evacuate. I had chosen this day to
visit the d’Orsay because it stays open on Thursdays until 9:30 pm. It’s about 4:30 pm when we evacuate.
The evacuation was
very orderly, and it was strange not to see people in the main area of the
museum.
Michael took us to a
local bar where we commiserated.
Michael had to leave
for a dinner, and we looked for transportation back to rue Cler. We board the 69
bus after crossing a bridge near the Louvre/d’Orsay for early evening
pictures.




















































Loved the pictures and the narrative! Tres bien!!
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